The Ultimate Travel Guide to Segovia, Spain
- Samantha Diaz

- Dec 18, 2023
- 11 min read
A storybook city just over an hour from Madrid, Segovia feels like something out of a fairytale—with its soaring aqueduct, dramatic castle, quiet cobbled streets, and the kind of food that lingers in your memory long after you leave. Whether you’re visiting for a day or staying overnight, Segovia has a rhythm all its own: historic, romantic, walkable, and full of wonder. For me, it holds an extra special place in my heart—it’s where my fiancé proposed, and it truly was the most magical moment of my life. I visited in December and found the city peaceful, festive, and dusted with winter charm. Here’s everything you need to know before visiting Segovia.

Getting to Segovia, Spain
By Train
The high-speed AVE train is the quickest way to reach Segovia from Madrid. It takes just 28 minutes and departs from Madrid Chamartín to the Segovia-Guiomar station, which is about 15 minutes outside the historic center by taxi or local bus. Tickets cost around €23 round-trip and are easy to book through the RENFE website.
Pro Tip: Book your tickets in advance—especially around holidays—and try to snag a window seat. The views are lovely!
By Bus
If you're looking for a budget-friendly option, the bus from Madrid's Moncloa station to Segovia takes about 1.5 hours and drops you off right in the city center near the Aqueduct. Roundtrip fares are usually around €10. It’s an easy, comfortable ride. In colder months, bring an extra layer for the walk from the drop-off point. The breeze can be surprisingly brisk.
Bonus Option: If you're coming from Portugal or other parts of Spain, Alsa offers affordable routes to Madrid. For example, the Alsa Porto-Madrid route is available from just €25.80 per ticket.
By Car
I made the trip from Salamanca to Segovia, which is about 1 hour and 45 minutes by car (96 miles). If you’re visiting multiple cities in Castilla y León, renting a car is the way to go. From Madrid, it’s just over an hour’s drive and offers total flexibility if you like exploring off-the-beaten-path spots.
Pro Tip: Parking in Segovia can be tight. I parked in the public lot near the Aqueduct and walked everywhere from there.
Things to Do in Segovia, Spain
Aqueduct of Segovia
You can’t miss this one—literally. The Aqueduct of Segovia is the city’s most iconic landmark and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in the 1st century AD, this ancient marvel once carried water from mountain springs 11 miles away into the heart of the city, supplying fountains, baths, and homes. What’s truly jaw-dropping is how it’s made: 166 arches, nearly 92 feet (30 meters) high, and not a single drop of mortar—just perfectly cut stones stacked with astonishing precision. It’s considered one of the best-preserved Roman aqueducts in the world, and standing beneath it feels surreal. I stood there in awe for a while just taking it all in. It really does stop you in your tracks. I climbed the big staircase on the west side and was rewarded with sweeping views over the rooftops and the Aqueduct from above—the scale of this structure is hard to wrap your head around until you see it from that height.
Pro Tip: Go early in the morning or at golden hour for the best light (and fewer crowds). If you’re into photography, this is the shot.
Alcázar de Segovia
If there’s one place in Segovia that completely stole my heart, it’s this one. The Alcázar looks like it was pulled from the pages of a fairytale—perched dramatically on a rocky cliff with sweeping views of the countryside. Built in the 12th century on top of an old Roman fort, it has served as a royal palace, a military academy, and even a prison. It’s one of the most iconic castles in all of Spain, and once you see it, you’ll understand why.
I’m a little biased—this is where my fiancé proposed, and I’ll never forget that moment. It was just us, surrounded by the history and beauty of this place, and it felt like something out of a dream. The views alone are worth the visit, but climbing to the top of the Torre de Juan II? Absolutely breathtaking. The spiral staircase is no joke, but once you reach the top, you’re rewarded with panoramic views of Segovia that make it all worth it.
Entrance Fee: €7 for the castle and museum
Tower Access: Additional €3
Pro Tip: Book your tickets online ahead of time—especially on weekends or holidays. The tower access sells out quickly, and trust me, you don’t want to miss that view.

Segovia Cathedral (Catedral de Segovia)
Located right on Plaza Mayor, the Segovia Cathedral is absolutely stunning—inside and out. Built between 1525 and 1577, it’s considered one of the last Gothic cathedrals in Spain and it truly feels like a masterpiece. The exterior dominates the skyline, but the inside is just as impressive. There are 21 chapels, a peaceful cloister, and a beautiful collection of religious artwork and artifacts that give you a real sense of the city’s history.
Entrance Fee: General entry is €4, and if you want to visit the tower (which I recommend for the views!), it’s €7. You can also book a guided tour for €10.
Pro Tip: Go early to avoid crowds, especially in peak season. The morning light through the stained glass windows is magical.

Plaza Mayor
Segovia’s Plaza Mayor might be smaller than Madrid’s, but it has a charm all its own. It’s the heart of the old town—lined with cozy cafés, local shops, and one of the best views of the Cathedral. I ended up spending a full hour here without even realizing it. I ordered a glass of vermouth (or vermút, as locals call it)—a bittersweet, botanical-infused wine usually served over ice with a slice of orange or green olive—and just let the world pass by. The energy here is relaxed and timeless. There’s often live music in the background, and the plaza seems to glow at golden hour. It’s the kind of place where nothing big happens, but somehow, it still becomes one of your favorite memories.
Pro Tip: If you’ve never tried Spanish vermouth, this is the place to do it. Order one on a sunny terrace and pair it with olives or a little tapa—you won’t regret it.
Plaza Medina del Campo & Church of San Martín
This square has a quiet charm that really caught me off guard in the best way. It’s one of those places that doesn’t scream for your attention but totally deserves it. Anchored by the Romanesque Church of San Martín and a bold statue of local hero Juan Bravo, it’s a space that feels historic without trying too hard. Even if the church is closed (as it was when I went), the architectural details—like the stone arches and tower—are worth admiring up close. The statue of Juan Bravo, mid-stride and looking fierce, adds to the whole atmosphere. It’s a small but impactful stop that makes you feel like you’re walking through centuries of history. Entrance to the church is around €4 if it’s open, and you can check hours or ticket info.
Pro Tip: This square is the perfect in-between stop if you're making your way from the Cathedral toward the Alcázar. Pause here, take a few photos, and enjoy the slower pace.
Muralla de Segovia (City Walls)
On the way back into town from the Alcázar, I took a quiet walk along the Muralla de Segovia—the city’s ancient defensive wall that dates back to the 11th century. It’s one of those peaceful, lesser-talked-about spots that makes you slow down and take it all in. Some parts of the wall are open to walk along, and if you’re up for it, I highly recommend making your way up to the Mirador de la Muralla. The views of the city and surrounding countryside from there are absolutely worth it. Whether you choose to walk along the top of the wall, stroll through the park below, or just pause at one of the scenic overlooks, this is a beautiful and grounding way to re-enter the heart of the city.
Pro Tip: It’s quietest in the late afternoon, just before golden hour—perfect for photos and a peaceful reset after the castle crowds.
Jewish Quarter
One of my favorite parts of Segovia to just wander through—no agenda, no map. The Jewish Quarter is one of the oldest areas of the city, and it has this peaceful, almost hushed atmosphere that draws you in. I spent a while just getting lost in the narrow stone alleys, noticing the little things: arched windows, worn doorways, quiet courtyards tucked between centuries-old buildings. It’s a part of town that feels layered—full of history that you can sense even if you don’t know all the stories. While many of Segovia’s major landmarks are close by, this neighborhood invites you to slow your pace. It’s less about seeing and more about feeling—something you don’t always get in the more crowded corners of a city.
Pro Tip: Go in the early morning or late afternoon when the streets are quietest. It’s the perfect place for photos or a peaceful solo stroll.
Where to Eat in Segovia, Spain
Segovia is just as rich in flavor as it is in history—and if you’re a foodie, you’re going to love it here. The city’s culinary crown jewel is Cochinillo Asado (roast suckling pig), a dish that’s been perfected in this region for generations. It’s not overly seasoned—the magic comes from slow roasting the piglet until the skin turns golden crisp and the meat becomes so tender it’s traditionally cut with the edge of a plate. But there’s so much more to taste. Here are a few of my favorite spots from the trip.
Restaurante José María
If you’re going to try Cochinillo Asado, this is the place. It’s one of the most iconic restaurants in Segovia, and the dish absolutely lives up to the hype. The piglet is slow-roasted until the meat is buttery soft and the skin is perfectly crisp—so tender, in fact, they carve it with the edge of a plate. The atmosphere is lively yet elegant, and it’s just a short walk from the Cathedral, making it an ideal stop during your day in the city.
Mesón de Cándido
Just steps from the Aqueduct, this legendary spot has been serving up traditional Castilian dishes since 1905. The space is full of character, and the view from the windows—if you’re lucky enough to grab one—adds something extra special to the meal. Their Cochinillo Asado is top-tier, but what really stood out to me was the Judiones de la Granja—a rich, comforting stew of giant white beans, chorizo, and pork that’s a true Segovian classic. Traditional, hearty, and deeply satisfying.
Mesón Don Jimeno
Tucked just a short stroll from the Alcázar, this small and cozy spot is one of those hidden gems that feels more local and relaxed. The vibe is quiet and intimate—perfect for a slower-paced lunch or dinner after sightseeing. I’ve been lucky enough to try both the Solomillo (sirloin) with mushroom risotto and the Cordero Asado (roast lamb), and both were absolutely delicious. You’ll also find seasonal dishes featuring local ingredients, like Pulpo a la Gallega (Galician-style octopus) when it’s available.
Pro Tip: It’s small and fills up fast, so make a reservation if you can.
Restaurante El Abuelo
A bit more low-key and casual, this charming spot serves up comforting, rustic dishes that really highlight local flavors. It has that cozy, no-frills atmosphere that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into someone’s home kitchen—in the best way. I ordered the Caldereta de Cordero (lamb stew) and the Judiones de la Granja, and both were hearty, flavorful, and exactly what I needed on a chilly day. If you visit in season, don’t miss the Espárragos de Navas de Oro (white asparagus)—simple, fresh, and so good. Portions are generous, so come hungry.
Confitería El Alcázar
For dessert, this is an absolute must. It’s home to the famous Ponche Segoviano—a rich, almond-marzipan cake layered with custard and topped with caramelized sugar. It’s sweet, dense, and completely addictive. I couldn’t resist trying a few other pastries while I was there (zero regrets), and everything was made with care and tradition. This place is a dream for anyone with a sweet tooth.
Pro Tip: Grab your ponche to-go and pair it with a late-afternoon coffee. Segovia is made for slow, satisfying moments.
Best Coffee Shops in Segovia, Spain
Segovia isn’t overflowing with trendy cafés, but what it does have are sweet, cozy spots full of charm—places where you can linger over a warm drink and soak up the city’s slower pace.
Café Jeyma
This adorable little café in the old town quickly became my go-to. It has a welcoming, local vibe, strong coffee, and an excellent slice of carrot cake that honestly rivaled some of my favorite spots back home. The staff was lovely, and it’s a great place to take a mid-morning pause.
Café La Colonial
Right near Plaza Mayor, this place feels like a classic neighborhood café—no frills, just good coffee and good energy. I stopped here one morning after exploring the cathedral and had the most comforting café con leche and warm toast with tomato and olive oil. It’s tiny but full of life.
El Secreto de San Clemente
This one’s a little off the tourist path and perfect if you want something peaceful. It has a leafy outdoor patio, great espresso drinks, and some of the best homemade pastries I had in Segovia. I spent an hour here with my journal and felt like I had the whole place to myself.
La Concepción
If you’re wandering around the Jewish Quarter, this café is a gem. It’s tucked into a charming historic building with a serene courtyard that’s perfect for an afternoon coffee break. Their croissants were buttery perfection.
Where to Stay in Segovia, Spain
If you can swing it, I highly recommend staying at least two nights in Segovia. While many people visit as a day trip from Madrid, the city takes on a whole new kind of magic after sunset—when the day-trippers leave, the streets quiet down, and the monuments are softly lit against the night sky.
Here are a few places that stood out:
Hotel Infanta Isabel
Located right on Plaza Mayor, this charming hotel puts you in the heart of it all. I loved waking up to views of the Cathedral and stepping right out into the action. The rooms have a cozy, old-world vibe with balconies overlooking the square. Bonus: the staff were incredibly kind and helpful.
Áurea Convento Capuchinos by Eurostars
If you’re looking for something a little more luxurious, this boutique hotel is housed in a former convent and blends historical elegance with modern comfort. It’s tucked into a quiet area near the Alcázar, with peaceful gardens and spa options if you're in the mood to unwind.

Hotel Real Segovia
A classic option that’s a bit more budget-friendly, with lovely views and a great location just a few minutes from both the Aqueduct and Plaza Mayor. They also have a rooftop terrace that offers beautiful panoramic views of the city—perfect at golden hour.
Pro Tip: If you’re visiting in the winter months like I did, some hotels offer special rates. And since the city is so walkable, it’s worth staying somewhere central so you can pop back to your room if the weather gets chilly.
Best Time to Visit Segovia, Spain
Segovia is beautiful year-round, but the best time to visit really depends on what kind of experience you’re after.
I went in December, and honestly? It was magical. The city was quiet, cozy, and lightly dressed in festive lights. There was a crispness in the air, and sipping warm coffee while wandering through the quiet streets felt like stepping into a winter postcard. It’s also the off-season, so you’ll deal with fewer crowds and better hotel rates.
That said, spring (April–June) and early fall (September–October) are probably the sweet spot weather-wise. Think sunny days, mild temperatures, and just enough buzz around the city to keep it lively without it feeling overrun. These months are also ideal for exploring on foot without overheating.
Summer (July–August) can get hot, especially midday, and it’s definitely the busiest season. Expect larger crowds, especially around the Aqueduct and Alcázar. But if you don’t mind the heat and want everything open and buzzing, it could be a fun time.
Pro Tip: If you're not a fan of crowds but still want decent weather, try late September. The days are still warm, the evenings are cool, and the city feels just right.

Segovia truly feels like a city suspended in time—one where every stone has a story, and every quiet street invites you to slow down and savor the moment. Whether you come for the history, the food, or the fairytale charm, this place has a way of staying with you long after you’ve left. For me, it’ll always be more than just a pretty city—it’s where one of the most special moments of my life happened, and I hope it brings you a little magic too. If you’re heading there soon, take your time. Sip the vermouth, wander the alleyways, climb the towers, and definitely save room for dessert. Segovia has a way of rewarding those who explore with curiosity and heart.
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